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I ran a Thrush welded muffler on the KJ for several years until it rusted out. Now onto a rockauto stainless thru-flow type. No jobber tailpipe I jave found is as good as the original so far as good diameter and not rusting away quickly. I used up the first one, and now onto another used one...

The latch is fastened to the lower gate with two nuts over oval holes. You may need to loosen the nuts and slide the latch rearward. Or possibly the nuts have worked loose already and thats why you have the problem.

Thats lucky. I wore a new set of new tires crooked by the time I got the aftermarket UCAs on to be able to correct the camber.

... Disregard

All I know about the anti-theft (2005) is you have to use the original type key with the fob. Having a generic key cut (off an original) wont start the jeep. The fob has to be in proximity of the ignition/jeep.

The glass latch is probably still closed from pulling the swing door open. If you know were to poke in there with a screwdriver, you can pop it open pretty easy. If you take off the pastic panel inside, it is really obvious. I believe the metal part below the black plastic "shoe" has to be...

I try to keep the steels for winter. Alloys dont seem to tolerate the salt very well at all.

To each their own. Paint and the slight effort involved looked cheap and easy compared to wheels... and having tires remounted and rebalanced.

+1 on generic wheel silver, also called argent. I run two sets of wheels. The steels are semi-gloss black. The alum ones I went with dark graphite metallic.

You have to make a choice on ordering if you want the KJ or KK arms. I ordered the KJ specific arms. I dont recall if there was a left and right.

I have the Rocky Road UCAs. Them and the balljoints are going on 11 years now. Needed them at 2" lift and currently at 3". No issues.

Thats a bummer. I had hoped the hi-pinion could have been used to reduce the half shaft angles. That would take some serious cradle mods I guess. I recall JBA doing the steel front diff, and settling on the low pinion because of hi-pinion fitment issues. I briefly looked at using the 8.25"...

Dana 30 Tru-Trac for 3.73+ https://www.eaton.com/us/en-us/skuPage.912A585.html

Basic Dana 30 traction aids fit. I ran a powertrax no-slip for a while. It was pretty amazing, but did not play nice with my np242 swap, so out it came. Now i have a Tru-Trac to go in next time the front diff comes out for overhaul.

Thats basically a knockoff of the teraflex kit. Steel rear spacers there instead of plastic. No bumpstops though. I had to get aftermarket upper arms after the teraflex kit. Could not align with stock arms. Edit: KK strut forks are good for a little lift too.

I know the combustion chambers, and cam profiles are different between those years. I dont know if the 2011 PCM cares or not.

I've done pinion bearings twice now in the KJ. Once with 3.54 and once with 3.73. First time it sounded like a howl. 2nd time was a weird swishy noise (thought it was the tcase.) Seems to be a common thing. The dodge 8.25" was used in half-ton pickups and cars with small V8's so it should be up...

Actually, nevermind.... the diff and engine both are bolted to the cradle :rolleyes:

You're in a prime spot to drop/shim the cradle down some. Even just a little could help. I've gone to 3/4".

Search at www.car-part.com too.