Recent content by tjkj2002

My '02 came with a 18psi cap from the factory,what they are supposed to be and why running a OE cap blows out aftermarket radiators so fast which are only rated for 16psi.

Stock spec battery you may have a issue but if it has more CCA's then stock the stock system will not fully charge it and it will require a actual charger to fully charge it every few months.

I know of 1 KJ with 500+HP(modded 6.1 HEMI),was professionally built and was shipped outside of the US,the owner wanted it all hush,hush so your not going to find much about it.It was SFA'd also,the only way to properly fit a V8 into a KJ.

I these types of failures at least 2-3 times a week,they are much more common then you think depending on where you live and how well you have actually maintained your braking system.You must replace the brakes fluid every couple of years in these modern brake systems with aluminum parts...

Your KJ uses a 3 channel ABS system and the rear ABS sensor is also the rear WSS that operates the speedo.So any issue with that rear sensor will make the ABS not function and turn on the brake on also.

No brake pressure sensor on a KJ's master,only a fluid level sensor. Things that turn on the brake light in the IC..................... 1-low brake fluid(level sensor) 2-bad level sensor 3-any ABS codes(if you have ABS) 4 parking brake switch You will need a high end scanner to...

The KJ's structure is 300% stiffer then the XJ's,SFA'd and at full stuff I still could easily open and close every single door(no twisting at all).

2" piece of vacuum hose and 30 seconds to repair. Why spend all that time and effort for a 30 second repair?

If the master went dry I'd be changing it and having ABS the prop valve is part of the ABS module which needs to be bleed via a scanner that can access that function(your looking at $2000+ scanners for that old).

Driveshaft from dealer = 100% brand new,the one you found is a remaned shaft with a $10 junk end put on and re-painted. Huge price difference(quality) between OEM "new" and remaned,heck even china built "new".

Classic heater core restriction problem. Look at the pic I posted of the heater core in a KJ.Fully plugged you will still have "good flow" through the hoses and core with both the inlet and outlet on the same side that can bypass the actual core itself.

In bold is a dead give away to the issue. Only 1 way the intake got "stress cracks" and that is from to much heat.

My '02 would be at operating temp in less than 2-3 miles even at 0 degrees,blowing good heat before the 1/2 miles if I started driving shortly after actually starting the engine. At full operating temps the outlet temps in the center of the dash was 165-170 degrees on high fan speed,closer to...

You can not have excessive vacuum on a naturally aspirated engine.

I tend to stop working once I hit 82 hours for the week,at 83 hours it jumps me in the highest tax bracket so a 82 hour pay check is over $300 more then a 83 hour pay check.I don't get over time pay either:favorites68:.