Recent content by atvuornf

New switch fixed it.

The garage who had the car last week for new glow plugs told me it was showing a fault so he cleaned it. I suppose take it back and get a new one.

I've had a problem, the light goes out a while later. Sometimes one day, sometimes one hour.

Can anyone give me help with these slow mirrors. Today I took the mirror switch apart and cleaned the connections but found nothing wrong. After refitting the switch I removed the mirror glass and used a 12v test lamp to check for power/live whilst operating the mirror. To my amazement it...

There is no need to remove the mirror. Pull off the glass and the unit is held in place with three torxs and one electrical plug. Once out, it's held together by one central torx screw and simply un-clips for disassembly . The motors push into a recess as do the electrical connections. Gears...

I went to a great deal of effort today and stripped down my door mirror. It won't adjust from the switch or it does once very slowly and then gives up. I removed the two motors which control the up/down and left/right. Both motors were in perfect order and when I applied power it worked...

I think the hose clip I see is in fact the correct part.

I've added a picture.

Whilst servicing my car today I noticed the wrong type of clip. Lying on the floor, looking up from under the car, where the exhaust meets the manifold. I notice at the end of the cast manifold nearest the bulk head there is a pipe which I assume goes to the EGR. That pipe is secured with a...

Yes you are correct, I copied this from the manual. FRONT AXLE ² 186FIA (Model 30) - Mopart Lubricant 80W-90 REAR AXLE ² 8 1/4 - Mopart Gear Lubricant 75W-90 (Trailer Towing - Mopart Synthentic Gear Lubricant 75W-140

85k miles, to add I just read the service manual and it mentions different oils for the front and rear differentials 80w-90 front, 75w-140 rear. Does it really matter if I'm just topping up?

I'm a little confused, what oil does the transfer box take.

Thanks, the more research I do seems to confirm that the compressor does indeed run when you don't want it to. There is no override, it's all pre-programmed. The only good thing is that my system is how it's meant to be.

As soon as I start my car and the engine fires up I head an immediate click of the air con compressor clutch even though it's not turned on. If I look down it's engaged. Should this be so or do I have a stuck relay/switch?

Thanks lads, I've been out in it all afternoon and it's running fine with no limp mode. I'll get the codes read this week.