High output alternator

eradicator006 · Jun 17, 2010

Does anybody have any experience with one of these? https://www.dcpowerinc.com/alternat...-4-7v8-260-amp-high-output-alternator-29.html

They claim it's a direct bolt-on and compatible with the PCM controlling the alternator.

LibertyTC · Jun 17, 2010

For $600? 200amps at idle, unfortunately the limiting factor is the PCM and you never will get those kind of amps going in.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42217&highlight=alternator
If you are considering this alt because of lighting and heavy draw accessories, you would be better off to plan for a dual battery set up, using a high amp battery like the PC-1500 Odyssey.

eradicator006 · Jun 17, 2010

Those Odyssey batteries look nice. I take it I would need the 34R-PC1500. Looks like there is an Odyssey dealer a few hours from me. Would you happen to know an approximate cost on a pc1500?

I am in need of more power for my stereo system. In the car audio world, most people tend to recommend high output alternators along with a good agm battery (or several). Right now I have a Canadian tire eliminator 875cca battery. At normal listening volumes everything is fine...no dimming. Half volume, serious head light dim along with dash light dim. 3/4 volume, battery light on the dash lights up and Jeep starts to run rough. Easiest solution is to not turn it up, which is what I do 99% of the time. There is still that 1% of the time where I like to let it rip.

New Liberty · Jun 17, 2010

eradicator006 said:
Those Odyssey batteries look nice. I take it I would need the 34R-PC1500. Looks like there is an Odyssey dealer a few hours from me. Would you happen to know an approximate cost on a pc1500?

I am in need of more power for my stereo system. In the car audio world, most people tend to recommend high output alternators along with a good agm battery (or several). Right now I have a Canadian tire eliminator 875cca battery. At normal listening volumes everything is fine...no dimming. Half volume, serious head light dim along with dash light dim. 3/4 volume, battery light on the dash lights up and Jeep starts to run rough. Easiest solution is to not turn it up, which is what I do 99% of the time. There is still that 1% of the time where I like to let it rip.

What are you running componant wise. I had a similar batt in another truck running 2 amps, and never had any issues like that...half volume or full.

LibertyTC · Jun 17, 2010

Quality cable type wiring goes a long way to achieving better grounds. You should use Ancor http://www.marinco.com/brand/ancor Marine Grade Tin/copper in 8 or 4 ga depending on amp's draw and length of cable required. This will really pick up the delivery of power on the positive side and ground.
The average price PC1500DT- 34/78-PC1500 is going to be $250.
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc1500series.htm

eradicator006 · Jun 17, 2010

Kenwood KIV-700 head-unit - This is a cd-less unit so it likely draws less current than stock.
Rockford Fosgate p4004 100 watts x 4 - has 2 30 amp fuses
Rockford Fosgate t40001bd ~4600watts x 1 - has 2 300 amp fuses

Wiring is KNU Kollosis 100% OFC 1/0 from batt to mono amp
#4 rockford fosgate high strand from batt to 4 channel

Grounds run from each amp (same gauge as power) to a bare metal spot behind where the rear seats bolt to the floor

Dave · Jun 17, 2010

The Renne models came with a higher output alternator due to the roof mounted off road lights. I think the standard alternator puts out 160 but I am not sure what the output was or the difference on the Renne alternator at this moment. That one might be better along with a bigger capacity battery?? Just a thought.

Dave

LibertyTC · Jun 17, 2010

ya WOW ! ok...
You can try one Odyssey, but I got the feeling with that kinda draw and it cranked your going to need:
dual odyssey batteries.... the Rene PCM and Alt.
Why not just bring a Honda Generator! Jeez....you like it loud or what?
I wonder how much the plastic inside the KJ rattles with that system?
The rear gate window must be doing it's own dance.

rockymountain · Jun 17, 2010

LibertyTC said:
ya WOW ! ok...
You can try one Odyssey, but I got the feeling with that kinda draw and it cranked your going to need:
dual odyssey batteries.... the Rene PCM and Alt.
Why not just bring a Honda Generator! Jeez....you like it loud or what?
I wonder how much the plastic inside the KJ rattles with that system?
The rear gate window must be doing it's own dance.

eehhh? huh? what did you say?

CRD Joe · Jun 17, 2010

If your stereo system needs that kind of alternator you need to see a doctor! If you winch a lot and need an alternator like that ok then. nana.gif

J-Thompson · Jun 17, 2010

You have something wired wrong
you have a peak load of about 420 amps
that is the running load of a winch ,winching stuck jeep
at this load a 850 cc battery will go about 20 minutes
keep in mind that the peak lod is only at full volume
and only on extreme low base notes ,no doubt what you are looking for
with that in mind you are probably pulling about 1/2 - 3/4 of that

in short there is something else wrong
considering that guys with TJ's running stock alt's and basic
850 cca batteries winch all day with out those issues
you could run dual batteries but that probably will not help
IMO the ground is the issue
how big is the ground from the "frame" to the battery?
are you sure your ground is as good as your power?
Is the battery good? (load tested?)
with that kind of current draw I would be looking at running
a 0 or even 00 back to the negative on the battery
and no need to piss away money on fancy audio cable
welding leads will do the same thing
and come in very fine stranded wire for much less
than audio cables

eradicator006 · Jun 17, 2010

J-Thompson said:
You have something wired wrong
you have a peak load of about 420 amps
that is the running load of a winch ,winching stuck jeep
at this load a 850 cc battery will go about 20 minutes
keep in mind that the peak lod is only at full volume
and only on extreme low base notes ,no doubt what you are looking for
with that in mind you are probably pulling about 1/2 - 3/4 of that

in short there is something else wrong
considering that guys with TJ's running stock alt's and basic
850 cca batteries winch all day with out those issues
you could run dual batteries but that probably will not help
IMO the ground is the issue
how big is the ground from the "frame" to the battery?
are you sure your ground is as good as your power?
Is the battery good? (load tested?)
with that kind of current draw I would be looking at running
a 0 or even 00 back to the negative on the battery
and no need to piss away money on fancy audio cable
welding leads will do the same thing
and come in very fine stranded wire for much less
than audio cables

I have 1/0 going from mono amp to ground point (bare metal on floor). #4 going from 4 channel to same ground point as mono. With the Liberty being unifram, I doubt this is an adequate grounding method for the current I am drawing. I'm also sure this is also why my battery posts corrode so much (have to clean every 5 or 6 weeks). Sounds like I'll have to run a dedicated ground from my batt to my mono amp. The 4 channel should be OK grounded where it is.

Your post kind of made everything go "click" in my head. A winch technically draws more current than my stereo. Music is dynamic. I don't drive around listening to 30hz test tones all day. Something is indeed wired wrong.

Thanks.

Ry' N Jen · Jun 18, 2010

I sent DC Power Engineering an email regarding their product.
I asked them if they have any hard data backing their claim that it will in fact work with the stock Power Control Module.
It would be nice to have an alternator that powerful in our KJ...
It will be interesting to read what DC Power Engineering has to say regarding
this!

JeepJeepster · Jun 18, 2010

You really think that since the kj is uniframe that its not a good ground? Where did that idea come from? Wiring up a stereo is pretty simple, so unless you really screwed something up its probably wired right. And comparing a winch to a stereo is kinda crazy. A stereo pulls very high loads very fast, that's where the dimming comes from. The battery and alternator cannot give out those charges as quick as the stereo pulls them, so you have dimming. A winch is a constant draw.

Before spending all this money on batteries and alternators, you need bigger wires from the batteries ground to the frame and the + from the alternator to the battery.

eradicator006 · Jun 18, 2010

JeepJeepster said:
You really think that since the kj is uniframe that its not a good ground? Where did that idea come from? Wiring up a stereo is pretty simple, so unless you really screwed something up its probably wired right. And comparing a winch to a stereo is kinda crazy. A stereo pulls very high loads very fast, that's where the dimming comes from. The battery and alternator cannot give out those charges as quick as the stereo pulls them, so you have dimming. A winch is a constant draw.

Before spending all this money on batteries and alternators, you need bigger wires from the batteries ground to the frame and the + from the alternator to the battery.

Forgot to mention it but I have done that already. 0 gauge going from + to alternator terminal, - going from batt to alternator bolt, - going to chassis. That actually helped the dimming a fair bit.

tjkj2002 · Jun 18, 2010

You do realize that sometimes,when certain conditions apply which can happen often,that your alternator is putting out nothing even when a high current draw is on the system?

The type of charging system that the KJ uses(along with more and more vehicles) you can not use normal diag techniques or you can not wire in something with high current draws like you used to.Adding the big wire from the alternator and battery is a no-no,it maybe a known good upgrade but that smaller wire is it's size for reasons.

eradicator006 · Jun 19, 2010

Not trying to argue with you but why is having a larger alternator wire bad? It's not like a larger wire magically generates more power. All the larger wire is supposed to do is offer a less resistive path. I figured the alternator wire is it's original size because it's the bare minimum that is required. Going larger would cost car manufactures more money.

I did remove the wire going from alternator to battery just incase I do end up blowing up my PCM or something else.

Ry' N Jen · Jun 24, 2010

This is the email I received yesterday from DC Power:

Hello Ryan,

Thanks for contacting us regarding an alternator for your Jeep. The PCM works fine with the bigger alternator. The PCM doesn’t control the output of the alternator, it’s the actual regulator in the alternator itself. The Chrysler PCM limiting output is a myth. The 260 will put out 260 amps as designed and won’t mess with the factory PCM.

All of the alternators we build are 100% new, and we only use 100% USA made parts for the highest quality, best performing, and longest lasting alternator you can get. We also back it up with the best customer service you can get along with a one year standard warranty.

Please let me know if you have any other questions or concerns.
-----------
Thanks,
Kyle Cannon

Direct: (888) 441-0144
Cell: (714) 699-3211

The Biggest and Baddest High Output Alternators on the Planet.
http://www.dcpowerinc.com

Anyone care to challenge their statement?

rockymountain · Jun 24, 2010

1 year warranty? $600 and a 1 year warranty. That's pretty darn funny.

Seems as tho the way it was worded is like "sure the alternator puts out 260, but you have to get it right from the alternator to get it".
right? no?

eradicator006 · Jun 24, 2010

From what I understand by reading the FSM, all the PCM does is control when the alternator charges. It controls some sort of ground to stop/start charging. When the battery is a certain temp and when voltage is a certain #, the PCM activates this ground and causes the alternator to charge the battery. I'm wondering if there is some sort of regulator inside the alternator that controls the amperage the alternator puts out. Has anybody actually taken apart an OEM alternator? Is there some kind of regulator? If there is a regulator in the alt then I can believe what Mr Dc Power is saying.

High output alternator

Full Access Member

Well-Known Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Well-Known Member

Full Access Member

Administrator

Well-Known Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Banned

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Banned

Full Access Member

Full Access Member

Similar threads