How-To Full Parking Brake Replacement

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WickedBruce

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Just did mine today, and figured I should take a boat load of pictures and hopefully help someone out. I have zero knowledge about most vehicle related repairs...however, I do have a willingness to learn...and the wife always gets kind of weary and tells me to be careful haha...but I refuse to be ripped off. haha. So..here is a quick list of tools that I used starting from removing the tire all the way down:

Your KJ's Tool For Removing Lugnuts
A Jack
Jackstands!
1/2in Socket
Standard Needle-nose Pliers (or needle-nose vice grips)
Mini Needle-nose Pliers
Wire Brush
Flat Head Screwdriver (situational)
Parking Brake Multi-tool (optional)
Hammer (situational)

Let's get started!

Loosen the lugs. Jack her up
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Then toss under some jackstands. (I used two...cuz i'm weird like that)
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Pull off the rubber
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The caliper has two bolts. This one:
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And this one:
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Set the Caliper off to the side....no need to tie it up..
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Pull off the rotor. (possible hammer use here)
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Pull this side of the spring. Here I used the Multi-tool...but the pliers work just fine too...(I only used it because I spent $8 on it..so may as well)
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Set it on the ground off to the side...this will start your physical diagram. Looking at the spring now you can see why the right side won't come off.
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Grab the bottom spring (from either side..I'm a lefty) Place it in it's spot on your new diagram!
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These clips are a real pain. In this picture I forgot to show how I got it off...but it's coming up on the other side! Once you pull off the clip, and the pin thru the back..the adjuster will probably fall, and your shoe will be completely detached as well
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Set it down in its spot!
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Ok, here is how I got the clips off! I grabbed it like this...pushed in, and then squeezed once it cleared.
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U should have a full diagram now!
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Set up your new stuff just like it
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Now it's time to clean the whole area with a wire brush...and anything else you want to do with it. Now that you've done that...let's put the new stuff on!

Put the shoe in the spot...put the pin thru the back, and line up the clip.
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Now the pins that I got in the new pack have a hammerhead shape...so once you get them through, you then have to turn them. I did this by placing my pliers over the hole they come through, pushed in the clip, when it cleared i grabbed and twisted and thats that! Here is what it should look like!
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Insert your top spring just like this..and you won't get frustrated I promise!
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After that pull the spring over and put it through the other shoe
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This part is a little tricky, and requires a bit of strength. with both of your shoes attached at the top by the spring...simply pull the second shoe back and put it in place. Like this
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Now since you're locked in up top, the shoe is going to want to kick out on the bottom...to avoid this...pop in the new adjuster on the bottom...just to keep it from doing that...no need to set it now. Now you can put the pin through the back..and throw on the other clip!
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Now you should be at this stage! Both shoes on, clips on, and adjuster.
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Grab the bottom spring and attach it on there..again..either way.
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And thats it!
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Here you can see the hammerhead pin.
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Mine pretty much needed to be done....
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The dealership quoted me $200 in Labor, plus $90 for parts. Instead I went to Autozone, got the shoes for $60, and the hardware for $30 and did it myself. And like I said before...I don't know much...but I just used common sense on this one. Lol. Obviously the other side is exactly the same! Throw the rotor, caliper, and tire back on and you're all set. If you guys have any questions just shoot me a message. Thanks.
 

Dave

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Nice thread WickedBruce. I made it a sticky if you don't mind.

When I did my rear brakes last year my e-brake pads fell apart just like yours when I removed them. I didn't think to take pics.

Dave
 

first&lastKJ

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Great write up and pictures, how many miles are on your jeep?
I think I'll check mine today.
 

WickedBruce

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No problem gentlemen! I've got 90k on my jeep right now...I got it at 86k..so I'm gradually replacing everything. I seafoamed her last night and nothing came out, which was awesome. And as you can see I just did the rotors and pads. I've got a lot of rust on the undercarriage....I guess whoever had it before me never washed it. So I think I may paint...or rhino line it.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Thanks for the thread! Makes the task seem so simple now...I'd been told by a local garage that I'd need to pull the axles to get the e-brakes replaced. Uh - guess not, eh? :party52:

Bob
 

WickedBruce

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Well thats what i kept reading as well. everywhere i looked said i had to pull the axles. But when i went and changed my rotors and brake pads...i looked and them i knew that was a bunch of bullshi.... I could literally see and get to everything i needed...why would taking the axle off change anything ya know?

When i got the quote from the dealer they told me that when they do it...it takes about 2 hours and they don't pull axles.
 

Beetlemn73

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2006 Liberty Diesel

Just did mine today, and figured I should take a boat load of pictures and hopefully help someone out. I have zero knowledge about most vehicle related repairs...however, I do have a willingness to learn...and the wife always gets kind of weary and tells me to be careful haha...but I refuse to be ripped off. haha. So..here is a quick list of tools that I used starting from removing the tire all the way down:

Well, mine started out to be like you show, however, my driver side back plate fell off when I took off the calipers. SO, I am in the middle of pulling the axles and re-attaching the back plates. I have 108K on mine. Original rotors, 2nd set of pads, original parking brake shoes. The shoes were all busted up on the right side, but the left side just off the metal shoe holder. So I'm taking the time to clean them up, use high temp paint and put them back together. I read that the dealer cost for this operation is around $700. I'm doing it for $200. I thought of doing the "tap" method, but didn't have the right size, so I'm doing the rivets...using Silicon RTV in a few places to curb the rusting and I'll see how it goes.

Thanks for the pictures.
 

robertjblais

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I just did mine on my 2006 liberty Renegade but had to replace the assembly on both sides. For some reason the 2006-2007 assembly is $250 vs $140 for other years. I had to disconnect the axle so I was able to slide the shaft the lug bolts are on. I did not have to be as careful as you because after unhooking the cable and the abs I just had to rip the outer parts off and remove the four nuts holding the assembly. I then cleaned everything up and went ahead and replaced the seals since I had it apart. Installing it was easy, the assemblies came altogether in one piece with springs, adjusters, pads everything all together, then with everything clean just attach with the four nuts and reattach the cable and the abs. Then slide the axle shafts back in and reconnect them. I was amazed that part of one side was so rusted it would tilt back and forth. It is all from the salt they use here in Northern Illinois on the roads because it sure isn't from use. You would think a parking brake would never wear out.
 

robertjblais

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If you need to change the backing plate or it had rusted out like mine, you will have to remove the axle shaft connect to lug bolts. I had to change both complete assemblies, I hope yours is not a 2006 or 2007 model because the assembly for each side is $250 - my dealer quoted $375 each. After you slide the axle off, you can just rip off old parts as the new assembly comes with everything installed. You remove four nuts and disconnect the abs and cable. Clean everything up, then reinstall the four nuts the abs and the cable, slide the axle shaft back in and reconnect. There is a forum I saw that explains how to this somewhere. Then go back to putting the rotors, pads and calipers back on. I changed the calipers and the rotors and pads also because it was removing one side because it had a bad caliper that I discovered how bad the backing plate was. So now I have new parking brake assemblies new rotors, pads and calipers on the both sides of the rear.
 

Cpt Marvel

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Ughhh,,so there are separate pads for the park brakes? Mine don't work at all. Guess that is a story for another day...,But thanks!!
 

JasonJ

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Ughhh,,so there are separate pads for the park brakes? Mine don't work at all. Guess that is a story for another day...,But thanks!!

Is there any tension when you pull up the parking brake lever? You may just need a cable adjustment.

You should also inspect your parking brake shoes... make sure they move freely and the springs are not broken, or rusted and seized. These really are just like primary rear drum brakes of old. Fairly basic and simple to rebuild if need be.
 

JasonJ

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This is a good post, however you should add comments/pictures relating to the proper adjustment of the parking brake shoes, since that is a critical part of replacing them. They wont work correctly, or at all until that is done (unless you get really lucky when installing the screw adjuster)!
 

Cpt Marvel

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Is there any tension when you pull up the parking brake lever? You may just need a cable adjustment.

You should also inspect your parking brake shoes... make sure they move freely and the springs are not broken, or rusted and seized. These really are just like primary rear drum brakes of old. Fairly basic and simple to rebuild if need be.

I pull up on it and it's like there is nothing there.
 

LIBERTY0505

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Parking brake

Great pic and instructions, I'm about to tackle it today ,just gta get spring kit ,make it alot easier, most informative material and pictures to go with it I've seen online,thank you,
 

jeridmar6

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Oooooooppppsy

Just getting ready to do the job and came across this awesome demonstration. I have to admit that I never thought about taking photos. There are a few video's available now. One thing, in the photo where you put it all back together, the star adjuster looks like it was put in backwards. If you had to adjust it, the star is on the wrong side of the opening. Not a big deal, you only have to remove the wheel, caliber and rotor to get at the star adjuster. Like I said, good job and thanks for the tips.
 

profdlp

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I "liked" this thread when I first came across it a couple years ago. I knew that someday the information would come in handy.

Well, last Sunday was that day. In addition to replacing all four rotors and all new pads, I managed to get the parking brakes done too.

I'd "like" this again if I could! :D
 

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