seeking oem longer rear control arms

[hadtomer]

hello guys.

I am looking for 2 rear control arms

https://www.amazon.com/APDTY-2004-2007-52088682AB-52128866AA-52088682AC/dp/B00BVPRPOM

that will be just a bit longer than the stock control arms. not more than an inch. before i have a pair fabricated- does any other JEEP model come with stock control arms that are longer than the kj control arms?

thanx!

 

[tommudd]

No
and why do you want longer arms ?

 

[u2slow]

WJ arms are longer. I have a set, but haven't tried them yet.

 

[tommudd]

WJ arms are longer. I have a set, but haven't tried them yet.

Longer lowers, then need longer upper, then possibly longer driveshaft, then more bumpstops since the tires won't be centered in the wheelwell when stuffed

 

[Myke]

If you want longer lower arms do it properly and move the mounts forward. Otherwise like Tom said you will mess up the swing arc.

If you can weld use 2 2"-2.5" OD .25 wall dom and Johnny joints at both ends. Ruffstuff sells prefabed link mounts.

 

[u2slow]

Longer lowers, then need longer upper, then possibly longer driveshaft, then more bumpstops since the tires won't be centered in the wheelwell when stuffed

All depends on your situation. The JBA tri-link extension effectively lengthens the upper. Not all of us are trying to stuff the tires.

You're right on the driveshaft... the main reason I haven't tried it yet.

 

[Myke]

If you do replace the shaft call up Adam's and they can make you a stronger shaft in the proper length.

 

[u2slow]

If you do replace the shaft call up Adam's and they can make you a stronger shaft in the proper length.

Thanks, but I'm more inclined to spin up a driveshaft spacer on my lathe.

 

[tommudd]

All depends on your situation. The JBA tri-link extension effectively lengthens the upper. Not all of us are trying to stuff the tires.

You're right on the driveshaft... the main reason I haven't tried it yet.

??? No, my JBA tri-link is the same length as the stock one

 

[u2slow]

??? No, my JBA tri-link is the same length as the stock one

The extension bracket. Its ~3/8" thick on its own. Plus whatever length is gained in making the upper arm horizontal again.

 

[tommudd]

The extension bracket. Its ~3/8" thick on its own. Plus whatever length is gained in making the upper arm horizontal again.

LOL so 3/8s of an inch, not that much since it is helping to tilt the rear diff back some to help with pinion angles, so not extending/ lengthening anything really, just helping. Plus with the washers for the adjustments its ends up almost stock anyways

 

[u2slow]

The WJ arms are ~3/4" longer.

LOL so 3/8s of an inch, not that much since it is helping to tilt the rear diff back some to help with pinion angles, so not extending/ lengthening anything really, just helping. Plus with the washers for the adjustments its ends up almost stock anyways

No, its made the ujoints vibrate more on acceleration. It was better before when the angles were more equally matched.

I think its fair to say... pay attention to the driveshaft length and angles whenever you're changing the length of the arms.

 

[tommudd]

The WJ arms are ~3/4" longer.




No, its made the ujoints vibrate more on acceleration. It was better before when the angles were more equally matched.

I think its fair to say... pay attention to the driveshaft length and angles whenever you're changing the length of the arms.

If you have vibrations then you don't have the pinion angles set right at all
No vibes on either one of mine with the extension or the bolt on, took a few tires to get everything just right but work great

 

[u2slow]

It seems 3/8" extra on the upper can be good and bad... maybe 3/4" extra on the lowers is the same? :happy175:

If you have vibrations then you don't have the pinion angles set right at all

I disagree. (We often do :icon_razz

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The angles were good, and now its not quite as good. I'll take the trade-off to have the JBA bracket so the UCA bushings last months instead of weeks. Replacing a ujoint a little more often doesn't bother me much. It gets checked for play every time I grease it anyway.

 

[tommudd]

Greaseable u-joints on the 04 have over 140,000 miles on them, all running at 4 to 4.5 inches of lift , still tight.
When lifted and done right there should be no vibrations , so I'll disagree. Some take a bit longer to get dialed in for sure but it can be done. I think some give up too soon and just live with the vibes.
It took me a while on the 04 when I first installed V-4 of the JBA bolton
But then no vibes at any rpm or speed
If yours were good and now not so, spring settlement would cause that somewhat

 

[mrlavalamp]

I ditched the tri-link extender on my lift. When I had it installed, it broke the casting, happened twice.

The first time was with the original extender that came with my lift from JBA. Was rounding a corner at a stop light, and hit the gas only to feel REALLY harsh vibrations and a load slam. The casting had broken, and the tri link extender bent, allowing the driveshaft to twist up and pull off the transfer case.

Fixed it all, and since the extender was bent (and I am a cheap ass) I duplicated it with some 1/2" steel plate I had.

This one lasted longer, but one weekend after a camping trip in north of the grand canyon, I hear the tri-link banging around and look underneath to see the casting broken again.

Removed the extender and all has been well since. No vibrations, and no more broken castings (and I have wheeled much harder recently).

 

[tommudd]

I ditched the tri-link extender on my lift. When I had it installed, it broke the casting, happened twice.

The first time was with the original extender that came with my lift from JBA. Was rounding a corner at a stop light, and hit the gas only to feel REALLY harsh vibrations and a load slam. The casting had broken, and the tri link extender bent, allowing the driveshaft to twist up and pull off the transfer case.

Fixed it all, and since the extender was bent (and I am a cheap ass) I duplicated it with some 1/2" steel plate I had.

This one lasted longer, but one weekend after a camping trip in north of the grand canyon, I hear the tri-link banging around and look underneath to see the casting broken again.

Removed the extender and all has been well since. No vibrations, and no more broken castings (and I have wheeled much harder recently).

Bolts came loose more than likely have seen that happen before causing same issues, doesn't take much. I have over 260-270,000 on Kjs and never broke one, that is with the extender and without, of course with the bolt on tri link now does away with it
But if lifted and no extender or anything , the tri-links don't last long, well not for me anyways

 

[dude1116]

It was impossible for me to get the right pinion angle with the JBA bracket.

I've thought about trying out IRO's adjustable WJ lower arms but never really had the spare cash to try it. I could get creative enough with the flares to fix up the inch or so offset in the swing angle. But everyone else is right...you will have to do something about that. As you see in my pic, there's not much room to play when stuffing your tires.

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[Damotee]

I recently had the Moog Problem Solver rear arms installed. I don't know if its true or not, but the mechanic mentioned to me that they seemed slightly longer than the stock ones. Theyre certainly much more bulky.

 

[tjkj2002]

It was impossible for me to get the right pinion angle with the JBA bracket.

I've thought about trying out IRO's adjustable WJ lower arms but never really had the spare cash to try it. I could get creative enough with the flares to fix up the inch or so offset in the swing angle. But everyone else is right...you will have to do something about that. As you see in my pic, there's not much room to play when stuffing your tires.

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Try playing with adjustable upper and lower control arms and getting the correct pinion angles for a CV style driveshaft(Double Cardon) to stuff 35" tires in a wheel well made for 29" tires.

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