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How to adjust park brakes


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Old 10-12-2006, 06:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
 
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Default How to adjust park brakes


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Could anyone post a good description on how to adjust parkbrake on a 2003 liberty ?
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Old 10-12-2006, 07:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
 
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According to the FSM, the parking brake is self adjusting, and therefore cannot be adjusted. Here is the quote from the FSM:

OPERATION

A hand operated lever in the passenger compartment
is the main application device. The front cable
is connected between the hand lever and the rear
cables with an equalizer.

The rear cables are connected to the actuating
lever on each primary brake shoe. The levers are
attached to the brake shoes by a pin either pressed
into, or welded to the lever. A clip is used to secure
the pin in the brake shoe. The pin allows each lever
to pivot independently of the brake shoe.

To apply the parking brakes, the hand lever is pulled
upward. This pulls the rear brake shoe actuating levers
forward, by means tensioner and cables. As the actuating
lever is pulled forward, the parking brake strut
(which is connected to both shoes), exerts a linear force
against the secondary brake shoe. This action presses
the secondary shoe into contact with the drum. Once
the secondary shoe contacts the drum, force is exerted
through the strut.

This force is transferred through the
strut to the primary brake shoe causing it to pivot into
the drum as well.
A gear type ratcheting mechanism is used to hold the
lever in an applied position. Parking brake release is
accomplished by the hand lever release button.
A parking brake switch is mounted on the parking
brake lever and is actuated by movement of the
lever.

The switch, which is in circuit with the red
warning light in the dash, will illuminate the warning
light whenever the parking brakes are applied.
Parking brake is self-adjusting when the lever is
pulled. The cable tensioner, once adjusted at the factory,
should not need further adjustment under normal
circumstances.
I dont see anything inside the FSM that talks about adjusting the cable tensioner. Sorry i can't be of more help.
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Old 10-12-2006, 07:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
 
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Thats wrong, its not self adjusting. Someone posted a short how-to either here or on L.O.S.T.. There is a rubber plug on the inside of the rear brakes. There is alittle wheel that you turn behind that plug to tighten the brakes. Its best to pull the hand brake up 3 clicks then turn the little wheel until you cannot turn the tire anymore. Then let the hand brake off and it should be perfect..
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Old 10-12-2006, 10:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by jeepjeepster
Thats wrong, its not self adjusting. Someone posted a short how-to either here or on L.O.S.T.. There is a rubber plug on the inside of the rear brakes. There is alittle wheel that you turn behind that plug to tighten the brakes. Its best to pull the hand brake up 3 clicks then turn the little wheel until you cannot turn the tire anymore. Then let the hand brake off and it should be perfect..
So there is a write up out there...i swore i saw one too...and reading the FSM didn't seem right to me either...but i posted it anyways...interesting.
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Old 10-13-2006, 04:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by 2003KJ
I dont see anything inside the FSM that talks about adjusting the cable tensioner. Sorry i can't be of more help.
Found it. Section 5 - Brakes>Brakes - Base>Shoes>Adjustments:
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOOL
Adjustment can be made with a standard brake
gauge or with adjusting tool. Adjustment is performed
with the complete brake assembly installed
on the backing plate.
(1) Be sure parking brake lever is fully released.
(2) Raise vehicle so rear wheels can be rotated
freely.
(3) Remove plug from each access hole in brake
support plates.
(4) Loosen parking brake cable adjustment nut
until there is slack in front cable.
(5) Insert adjusting tool through support plate
access hole and engage tool in teeth of adjusting
screw star wheel (Fig. 61).
(6) Rotate adjuster screw star wheel (move tool
handle upward) until slight drag can be felt when
wheel is rotated.
(7) Push and hold adjuster lever away from star
wheel with thin screwdriver.
(8) Back off adjuster screw star wheel until brake
drag is eliminated.
(9) Repeat adjustment at opposite wheel. Be sure
adjustment is equal at both wheels.
(10) Install support plate access hole plugs.
(11) Adjust parking brake cable and lower vehicle.
(12) Apply park brake hand lever and make sure
park brakes hold the vehicle staionary.
(13) Release park brake hand lever.
And here is figure 61:
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Old 10-13-2006, 08:49 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default anything for...

4 wheel disk? that image looks like a drum rear....
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Old 10-13-2006, 11:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
 
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Originally Posted by libertydude
4 wheel disk? that image looks like a drum rear....
Rear disc have drums inside of them for the parking break..
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Old 10-14-2006, 04:09 AM   #8 (permalink)
 
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[quote="Corwyyn"]
Originally Posted by 2003KJ
I dont see anything inside the FSM that talks about adjusting the cable tensioner. Sorry i can't be of more help.
Found it. Section 5 - Brakes>Brakes - Base>Shoes>Adjustments:
ADJUSTMENT - WITH ADJUSTING TOO

Hmm.

A bit to complicates for me :-(
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Old 04-25-2010, 11:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
 
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Any way to adjust without completely removing the rear brakes?

I just changed all my brakes yesterday hoping it would fix all the braking problems I have. It did fix the problems, except my parking brake still does not work.
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Old 04-25-2010, 09:44 PM   #10 (permalink)
 
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With the 4-wheel disc brakes, you have a small set of drum brakes mounted inside the drum shaped center of the rear rotors. There is no way to inspect these without removing the rotor.

Adusting can only be done with the brakes fully assembled - just like any other brake set-up. If I remember correctly, my Grand Cherokee had small star wheels and lever set-up to self adjust. I believe you apply the break and back-up as you would with normal self-adjusting rear shoes - but don't quote me as I've yet to look into my E-brake since it works / holds well.

Once you do get them apart you'll realize that there isn't much lining on these, as they are only ment to hold the vehicle once stopped, or stop the vehicle only a couple times in case of a brake failure. They are easily replaced.

If you're the stunt-driver type,
and try to "grab the E-brake" to slde through corners "Dukes of Hazzard" style
there is a good chance the shoes are fried.
If you bought the vehicle used, I would definately take a look at them when you do the first brake job - if not sooner - just to see what ol' Bo and Luke had been up to.
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