CV front driveshaft blew on the trail!

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mindbomb

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So I took my libby wheeling (me and 25 Wranglers... yep!)
and as I suspected, the lightly clicking CV joint in front driveshaft blew after making worse and worse noises along the trails/climbs/in 4lo etc

I had to be strapped to a ZJ with 33s, by some nice fellow Jeeper, and get towed, since the Libby essentially became 2x4 and incapable of climbing and going over some ruts.. Anyways, it shat the bed.

(4lo/hi indicators were still turning on, when engaging knob but front wheels won't get power, at that point CV, as a corpse, stopped making noises lol)

In a nutshell- which brand of CV joint rebuild kit should I get? I am reading terrible reviews about Detoit Axle, DTA, Dorman, and basically every other aftermarket brand - most seize after 5-20k miles or short time, etc etc

Need some inputs on what's the best course of action here, no intention to break the bank for no reason, give many recent Libby-related expenses


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rjkj2005

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I rebuilt both ends of mine with Detroit axel ends last summer​. Here's the deal. All these ends are basically made by the same manufacturer. Just boxed and sold by different companies. Most " blow out " because people don't know how to pack the grease into the cv joints. My tcase joint was a little stiff out of the box. But after a few hundred miles the slight vibration was gone. Also if you don't get the boot clamps tight water and dirt get in and just chew them up very quickly. Because the front turns just as much as the rear. I wheel mine at least once a month with the kids. Haven't had any issues.
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mindbomb

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Ok, good input..
I saw I can get the complete front driveshaft for ~140$ in eBay while both ends kit are like 90$ - so for 50$ extra one can get everything new/pre-assembled. Makes sense? Although pretty sure only rear side blew, so I can probably just spend 40$. What's your thought on that?

Now any tips on how to pack the grease into the cv joints? I don't it to blow out again coz I did the same mistake as the Amazon reviewers..

Thanks!!
 

tommudd

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Ok, good input..
I saw I can get the complete front driveshaft for ~140$ in eBay while both ends kit are like 90$ - so for 50$ extra one can get everything new/pre-assembled. Makes sense? Although pretty sure only rear side blew, so I can probably just spend 40$. What's your thought on that?

Now any tips on how to pack the grease into the cv joints? I don't it to blow out again coz I did the same mistake as the Amazon reviewers..

Thanks!!

EBAY/ 140 bucks/ get what you pay for, cheap junk
 

TwoBobsKJ

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First, to me it's awesome that the CV broke while wheeling it. Better than breaking while going to the local Piggly Wiggly or something :happy175:

Second, Don't go with an entire driveshaft - the one you have fits your KJ and is the correct length for yours whereas one from eBay may be the wrong length. There are at least two different lengths depending on which model KJ. I've had a CV joint on mine from DriveshaftParts.com for somewhere around 50 or 60,000 miles and its seen the trails, the highway, the mud the blood and the beer. Still no clicks or other noises. I agree with rjkj2005 - pack the grease properly and it will last a long time.

I just checked and DriveshaftParts.com has LOWERED the price - only $30 now! Click HERE to order one and be done with it.

Bob
 

Dave

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Sorry to hear about the damage but at least you were using it as a jeep.\


I like rjkj's or TwoBobs suggestion.


Dave
 

Wildebeest

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After a couple days of offroading I think mine is done as well. I'm just trying to decide whether it's the front driveshaft (~3 years old) or one of the front axle CV's (original). I'm getting a loud click, that I can feel in the footwell, with each tire rotation only when in 4wd under load. Anybody have an idea?

All CV boots are clean and intact.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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After a couple days of offroading I think mine is done as well. I'm just trying to decide whether it's the front driveshaft (~3 years old) or one of the front axle CV's (original). I'm getting a loud click, that I can feel in the footwell, with each tire rotation only when in 4wd under load. Anybody have an idea?

All CV boots are clean and intact.

Take a really close look at the CV on the transfer case end of the front drive shaft. That CV is almost directly under the front of the driver's seat so you tend to feel instead of hear the clicking. The boot on that rear CV is very concave and difficult to see if it's split. As cheap as the part is nowadays changing it is good insurance.

I assume that clicking in 2WD Hi is the prop-shaft?

Typically, yes. If the clicking changes when you turn the front wheels left or right that could be the outer CV on the front axles.

Bob
 
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Wildebeest

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I had a good look and all boots are in good shape. The knocking/clicking noise is rotational and seems to be with each wheel rotation under load in 4wd.
With the driveshaft spinning much faster, I'm leaning towards axle cv or something with the half shaft. My wife said she could hear the knocking coming from the passenger foot well, she also heard something rattling down there when going over bumps.

Take a really close look at the CV on the transfer case end of the front drive shaft. That CV is almost directly under the front of the driver's seat so you tend to feel instead of hear the clicking. The boot on that rear CV is very concave and difficult to see if it's split. As cheap as the part is nowadays changing it is good insurance.



Typically, yes. If the clicking change when you turn the front wheels left or right that could be the outer CV on the front axles.

Bob
 

JasonJ

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After a couple days of offroading I think mine is done as well. I'm just trying to decide whether it's the front driveshaft (~3 years old) or one of the front axle CV's (original). I'm getting a loud click, that I can feel in the footwell, with each tire rotation only when in 4wd under load. Anybody have an idea?

All CV boots are clean and intact.

Sounds like the front prop-shaft joint, like mindbomb's issue. The CV joints on the front half-shafts spin whether it is in 4wd or not, since the wheels are moving. They just aren't being driven under power from the transfer case. So if those axle joints were making noise, they'd be doing it regardless of 4wd or 2wd mode.
 

Wildebeest

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Sounds like the front prop-shaft joint, like mindbomb's issue. The CV joints on the front half-shafts spin whether it is in 4wd or not, since the wheels are moving. They just aren't being driven under power from the transfer case. So if those axle joints were making noise, they'd be doing it regardless of 4wd or 2wd mode.


The front driveshaft is always turning as well though, with wheel rotation. The noise is sort of a pop-pop-pop, and seems to be one pop per tire rotation.

I jacked up the front and rotated the wheels, no funny noises anywhere, of course! There does seem to be a fair bit of lateral play in the cv axles. It's tricky pinning down the faulty component in these ifs 4wds. The front axles are original with ~100k miles, and I've recently lifted 3"...
 

mindbomb

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Removed the 6 bolts from front driveshaft but couldn't separate the fitting and take it out next matter what. Tried hitting on the seam with hammer and flat screwdriver - didn't move. No joy. Any good advice??

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JasonJ

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The front driveshaft is always turning as well though, with wheel rotation. The noise is sort of a pop-pop-pop, and seems to be one pop per tire rotation.

I jacked up the front and rotated the wheels, no funny noises anywhere, of course! There does seem to be a fair bit of lateral play in the cv axles. It's tricky pinning down the faulty component in these ifs 4wds. The front axles are original with ~100k miles, and I've recently lifted 3"...

True.. what if you remove the front prop shaft and take it for a drive? See if the noise persists. If not, propshaft problem.. if it does, cv joints/axles.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Removed the 6 bolts from front driveshaft but couldn't separate the fitting and take it out next matter what. Tried hitting on the seam with hammer and flat screwdriver - didn't move. No joy. Any good advice??

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Was the T-case end removed? Lots easier if the rear CV is separated from the T-case - that gives you some leverage to pop off the front CV.


Bob
 

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