the beloved parking brake...

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ol-flattop

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Hi all, I'm new here, but I've lurked pretty much since I got my KJ ('06) last November. Usually my questions have been answered in old threads, but I didn't find anything this time.

I adore this Jeep, but the previous owner didn't take the best care of it - the latest offender is the parking brake. As near as I can tell, I'm the first one to actually use it. I didn't think to check its function when I test drove it (which was a pretty big oversight), and so discovered while parking on a hill that it wouldn't hold the Jeep in place, and felt like it wasn't engaging at all. I figured it was out of adjustment (yeah, it's self-adjusting, I know now), and yanked it up again, this time with authority and vigor, determined that I was going to make it work (it didn't). A pop and small jolt followed, after which I noticed a squeaking/grinding/rubbing sound from the rear passenger side wheel with every rotation. On a hunch I tried pulling gently on the parking brake lever while in motion, and while the brake itself fared no better than before, it did make the cursed squeaking go away while partially engaged. Today, I finally had the time to remove both rear rotors and see just what was going on back there. The front shoe on each side had popped out of its track. At first I assumed I'd done this myself, but parts 3 and 4 on the diagram below were seized quite badly on both sides, so that I doubt I could have moved them enough to accomplish this.
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Additionally, on the passenger side, an unnumbered part on this diagram (backing plate, or some such name? It's the big round sheet with the cutout for brake pads) was no longer attached as the one on the driver side was. There wasn't enough light for me to tell how they are supposed to be attached, but the one on the right is free to rub the rotor - which I suspect was the sound I heard. When I pulled on the lever, the mechanism clamped this plate against the frame behind it and stopped the noise.

All four shoes were...well, they had no material left to speak of. The drum portion of the right rotor looked ok at best. The left rotor's drum was caked in rust. The hardware was terrible.

However, the actual rotors and pads are in good shape. Would it be sufficient to attack the offending drum with some 80-grit sandpaper, replace the shoes and hardware, lube and work the sticking mechanism until it cooperates, and drive on?

Otherwise, I'm afraid I'm looking at $100 for four small, relatively unimportant pieces of metal (#'s 3-4 above), $50-$100 for new rotors, $20-$40 for pads, and more to replace that nameless sheet metal plate (which I suspect would require opening up a whole new can of worms I'd rather avoid), in addition to the totally reasonable $40 or so it will take to just sand off the bulk of the rust and and replace the shoes and hardware. Oh, and this is probably not the best time to add that I'm poor.:-({|=

So, what do you experienced Jeepers recommend? Thanks in advance!
 

renegade 04

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I had the same problem with mine and as a result I had a large plume of smoke because my ebrake was partially engaged. so to unseize those two parts you are going to need to use some kroil and spray it on the parts and let it sit and after about 5-10 minutes it should unseize itself.
 

Leeann

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Get a hardware kit from a parts house or rockauto - they have different parts kits for the regular rear brakes and for the parking brakes. The backing plate originally was spot-welded. Someone on here drilled them and put in bolts to hold them, iirc.
 

TheBlueKJ

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I had the same problem with mine and as a result I had a large plume of smoke because my ebrake was partially engaged. so to unseize those two parts you are going to need to use some kroil and spray it on the parts and let it sit and after about 5-10 minutes it should unseize itself.

Same thing happened to me. the mechanism inside the spring for the ebrake cable was frozen so I took it out and broke it loose. I couldn't get it back in so I said to hell with it and now running without an ebrake
 

ol-flattop

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Thanks. Had hardware and shoes in my cart at rockauto already, just wanted to check and see whether it would be enough.

Good tip on just bolting the backing plate. I love it when a fix is simple and costs about 25 cents and 45 seconds of my time.

Blue, I almost reached that point, but I've developed something approaching OCD concerning my KJ and bike - now that I finally have two vehicles I really like, it seems almost immoral to neglect even a minor problem with them.
 

Porkchop

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Just did mine 3 Weeks ago. Changed the rear diff fluid at the same time riveted the backing plates back on new shoes new hardware and took apart 3 and 4 cleaned and put back together with proper grease. My err was driving with the park brake on forgot to take it off sunglasses blocked out the red light got home backed in the drive heard the noise stopped to park it reached down and said &$@#!+/?.
 

LibertyTC

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ol-flattop

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...took apart 3 and 4 cleaned and put back together with proper grease...

I'm planning to do that when my hardware comes in. I should have checked while I had the shoes off - how easy is it to disassemble and reassemble that mechanism? From Mopar's diagram, it's not easy to tell exactly what's going on there, but it kind of looks like they're only held together because of tension from the cable (or, in our case, copious amounts of rust).
 

Porkchop

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Yes your right spring tention from the cable holds 3&4 together when in the slot of the back plate. But it's best to pull the Axel to work on the park brake that's why I changed the diff fluid at the same time. Liberty TC I did it after that posting still mad I my self for being a dumb ask and it being my own fault.
 

ol-flattop

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Just popping in to say thanks - I tore down both brakes, cleaned and lapped the levers (#'s 3-4; getting them off required some elbow grease!), lubed and reinstalled them, bolted on the backing plate, sanded most of the rust out of drum #2, put in new hardware on both sides, and adjusted the stars. My parking brake is now quite solid! Thanks for the tips, everyone.
 

Ron_J

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I'm assuming you pulled the axles since you bolted the plate on? I need to do this exact same thing to my daughters. And I'm not looking forward to pulling the axles.
 

Porkchop

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Might want to read up on pulling the rear axles. Really not that hard to do. Once you drop the dif cove you pull the C clips but do not turn the axles or the gears once you do pull the C clips on the end of the axles. Also you end up changing the rear end fluid at the same time.
 

cplchris

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Get a hardware kit from a parts house or rockauto - they have different parts kits for the regular rear brakes and for the parking brakes. The backing plate originally was spot-welded. Someone on here drilled them and put in bolts to hold them, iirc.

that someone was me, the backing plates are installed using aluminum pop rivets from the factory, mine were disintegrated.

first you must pull the axle from the axle housing (do one side at a time). if you aren't comfortable doing this, enlist the help of someone who is. this also means you will need to pull the diff cover to drain the fluid and access the diff (in order to remove the axle).

i initially planned to thread the holes that were already there but there wasn't enough material to do so.

i had to drill straight through everything and then i used some 1/4'' IIRC stainless bolts and prevailing torque nuts on the backside (with a washer of course)

i have no worries of the plates coming loose ever again.

before you do this make sure you have a good sharp set of cobalt drill bits and either cutting oil or wd-40

edit: i didnt read this whole thread, it looks like im late to the party.
 

72specialized

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Part 3&4 should come part with some lube, a small gentle hammer and some strength. (Sounds like a fun Saturday night!) get some high temp antisieze lube and good to go. The backing plate is an easy fix with a couple well placed rivets or bolt and new pads and some time and should be as good as new. Spent a couple days in the summer ripping my rear brake system apart including one new piston. Fun times the damn machines.

Alan
 

ol-flattop

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I'm assuming you pulled the axles since you bolted the plate on? I need to do this exact same thing to my daughters. And I'm not looking forward to pulling the axles.

I did not. I imagine that would be the best way to do this, but I was running out of time and patience. I managed to find an off-center spot to drill and bolt without further dismantling (don't remember exactly where it was), and fastened it with a very small nut and bolt. The factory rivet popped, true enough, but even a tiny steel bolt is far stronger. I was willing to accept 'good enough,' since it meant NOT having to drain the diff fluid and pull the axle. YMMV.
 

MarkJ

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Mine were all seized when I got it. Took them apart and removed those top parts which were stuck together. Sprayed WD40 and pried them apart. Shined them up on the wire wheel and re-lubed, re-installed, etc they now work great. No need to remove axle at all. Only problem is getting the brake cable back on but get a good strong needle nose and it goes back ok.
Mark
 

MarkJ

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Mine were making a terrible squeeking noise shortly after we bought it. Parts 3 & 4 were seized. I soaked them a bit and broke them loose. Cleaned off rust and grime on the wire wheel and reassembled with high temp brake grease. Yes the cable attachment holds them on. Put new shoes on and cleaned and greased backing plate tabs. They work great now. I have no idea why anyone would pull the axel to do this.
 
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