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https://www.etrailer.com/fmr-2007_Jeep_Liberty.htm

You can go to a 4.88 in a KK front diff, but I can’t imagine how you’d get tires that large to fit under it with the limitations of IFS. At this point a SFA swap would make more sense.

That’s a bummer. I am not sure this part comes without a whole new fuel pump attached. But with an 02, your Liberty may need one soon anyway. Replacing the whole unit could save you the hassle of being stranded down the road.

Yes, they are side specific. I remember the driver side one being kind of a pain to get in. Especially the rear bolt, which you have to reach underneath the wheel well from outside of the engine bay to get it in. But it just takes some shoving in, along with some wiggling back-and-forth to get...

Nice work! Amazing that it is plug and play with no reprogramming. Can you show a picture of the new steering wheel? Is it like the old one with the stalk or is it one of the new style wheels with buttons on the spokes?

Raising the height will cause toe-in without aligning.

Great job. That's got to feel satisfying to have those working again. :cool:

Those lights look great!

I need to do some rewiring. Some of this problem is because of the previous owner and some is from a past version of myself being lazy 10 years ago. The trailer harness, a rear inverter, and a manual switch for the dome lights are all powered on the same circuit. That's not cool. Each of those 3...

My experience doing this was I had to remove the arm, drill multiple holes in the rubber bushing, put it in my press and push out the center, then take a sawzall and slice the outer metal sleeve, then tap it out with a hammer & screwdriver. Then I pressed in a new Moog bushing. I hope you can do...

I am not sure on the KJ, but on the KK at least, the Jeep will start up fine and then die in about 2 seconds without the proper transponder signal from the key. Where yours wouldn't fire up at all, I would suspect something other than the SKIM module. But again, I am not sure if the KJ behavior...

This is such a cool project.

Yes, the ground is good. I think I just figured it out though. The fuse to the harness is blown out. :facepalm: Should have checked that first. But since I had directionals and brake lights, I assumed incorrectly the fuse was still good. But the harness must have been tapping the tail light...

Interestingly enough, my trailer harness is having issues, so now my trailer has no running lights. The brakes and directionals all work fine on the trailer, and the running lights work on the Jeep. I have the problem isolated to a broken wire somewhere between the wire harness running light...

Looks good. Is it already lifted?

I am not super sure but I’ll take a shot at it. Because the 07 has an electric throttle body that is computer controlled rather than a cable attached to the drivers foot, the computer can keep the throttle body barely open at idle and do what the IAC does in older models. Thus if you have an IAC...

Also, be sure it was installed correctly by the shop. This happened to me once and it would squeal every time I had the AC on. They then tried to tell me my compressor was kaput. Nope. Belt routed wrong.

Looking at alternatives for the N132L on a different thread: OME: 132L Bilstein: either 24-185660 (series 5100, old P/N was BS-F4-BE5-6458-H7) or 33-185859(series 4600, old P/N was BS-F4-BE5-A702-H0, these are for the Dodge Dakota) I’m running Bilsteins on my lifted KK and I think they’re great.

If you spend the money to regear your differentials, you can compensate for tire size differences and the engine will run in the stock rpm range: 29’s - 3.73 30.5/31’s - 4.10 32’s - 4.56* *KK 08-12 model years only. KJ can only go up to 4.10 gears.

Sorry, I don’t. There is not much room between the axle tube and the lower spring perch for the nut so if you get them too long you can cut them down. Best to hold the hockey pucks in your hand as you look at bolts.